Photo album Day 5!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/s2sqPFPpfMWvL62U9
Today started off a bit rocky with an 8:30 start for the how-manyth day in a row. It’s been a bit difficult for me to adjust, especially since my normal schedule starts at 10-11am and ends at 2am, but so far, with the time adjustment, I’ve been OK. Tomorrow, though, I can sleep in a bit (if I can get this written in a decent amount of time. It usually takes about 30min – an hour, and I started at 12:30am). At any rate, it’ll be more (and better) sleep than usual, so I’m thrilled.
We started the morning off with a discussion of the last night’s play, Taming of the Shrew. I won’t go into much detail since I did gush a bit yesterday, but our main conclusion was that, when the director (I’ll need to look up the details and post them later) chose to flip the gender script, he highlighted just how “stockholmy” (my own) the play actually was – reinforced by the costuming choices. My plan is to email the playhouse and see what kind of info I can get from them, and perhaps write a bit on it soon.
After discussion, we checked out and left our bags, then headed into town to sightsee. We’d stayed in a delightful manse by Macdonald – Aldridge Hotel? – that sprawled over the back side of Stratford-upon-Avon, so we needed to head back across the river to see anything other than swans. I didn’t mind, but we did kind of come to see Shakespeare’s Places and all.
I took up with Anna, Rachel, and Ivey and headed toward Shakespeare’s Birthplace, stopping at a tasty local coffee shop for breakfast and a comfortable chat. I am, after all, in love with British lattes, as they’re nowhere near as sweet as back home, but still just as potent. We spotted a shop called Alohamora (advertising Harry Potter merch in the window) and so headed across the street to check it out. Nothing like coming to Stratford to shop for HP swag! They also had Game of Thrones gear, and Ivey had a ball picking out goblets for her pose. I ended up chatting up the shopkeep (a gentleman newly emigrated from Mexico City who was quite friendly) a bit too long, so we had to rush across the street.
The Birthplace House offered a small museum displaying a copy of the First Folio and a collection of items contemporary to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries from various places and themes, including Stratford itself. Once we’d walked ourselves through at our own pace (though a rather rushed one, as we had three potential sites and three hours to do it), we headed toward the house itself. Apparently, Shakespeare’s parents owned a rather large place (his father was a leatherworker and tanner) with three bedrooms upstairs (girls, boys, and parents) and three beds (the height of luxury), and a workshop, cooking and dining room, and parlor (with the “best” bed in the house for display and guests). Underneath the third bedroom, there was a small extra room with a hearth for a Jane and her children (I missed the introductory part here – Will’s sister, I guess?).
The whole place was well-furnished, especially for the late sixteenth, and we even had the pleasure of listening to a few youngsters read a presentation on Will’s family in his parents’ bedroom – and the Shakespeare children’s supposed birthplace. Will eventually inherited the house and rented it out to a tenant, who later turned it into a tavern and added onto the back. The workmanship was highly impressive, and the house itself preserved well indeed. I had another quick chat with a helpful tour guide about old trees in the area, and we moved outside.
We decided, after having wandered the house and grounds – gorgeously gardened, unlike Covent (xD) – that instead of rushing through New House (where Will moved after letting the Birthplace) that we’d find the local witch shop and see what there was to see. They sold Butterbeer, which was a draw for Anna, and I found a pile of antique fashion plate prints for a reasonable price. I wish I could’ve afforded more than the one I picked up! After exploring the shop a bit more (similar to a small Phoenix and Dragon in Roswell, but also touristy), we moved back to the hotel to gather our gear and taxi to the train.
We made the train on time, rode twenty minutes to the Solihull station for the transfer to London, and then Anna realized she had left her wallet on the train. She immediately let the ticket booth know, who called down to the next station, and was prepared to wait on the following train to London twenty minutes behind our own. Thankfully, they caught the original train in time and were able to send the wallet with our London one! Quite the nerve-wracking experience for all, and one we hope we won’t repeat.
We found our new hotel and checked in. My room is a double bed this time, and rather comfortable, if small and hard on the wifi. I’m hoping I can connect in the morning to post this – otherwise it’ll be a few days.
For supper we visited the Prince Alfred – not Albert! – pub down the street. It had been empty, and could hold the eight of us that wanted to have a drink and supper a bit early. I picked up a plate of nachos, as Ivey offered to pass her leftover cottage pie. Rachel liked her fish and chips, and Maria had a ham and [flavor] pie, Sarah a steak and [mushroom?], both with potatoes and drenched in gravy. I think I might try one next time. Too, we all decided on drinks, as it’s been a rather stressful week. I also realized that I’d been sober the whole week – a good thing, since there’s so much to take in, but I’ve been craving scotch, too.
They sold me a Lagavoulin 16 for 4£. I bought a double, and a cider besides. I’d never had Lag, since it’s so expensive to import to the states, and I’m thrilled I had a chance to try it so cheap. I’m hoping I can pick up a bottle or two to take home, depending on my customs research. If a single is so little, I can’t believe a bottle is more than 40£, which for scotch that good is a damn good price. The peat was a follow-up (please forgive me my lack of scotchy-professional terms) instead of a first-up, and I can’t get enough.
Post-supper we headed to the Adelphi for Waitress, the musical. It was lovely and funny and a delightful thing to see, honestly. It’s not for everyone – it’s a highly progressive play, centering around Jenna’s life as a waitress and pie baker, and her decision to keep a baby from a loveless marriage. I won’t spoil the fun, for sure, but suffice to say “Goodbye Earl” was stuck in my head all night from the moment they introduced her husband.
The play is set in the Rural South, and the actors tried (and somewhat succeeded) to reproduce that particular drawl. I cracked up a few times over the accents, but overall they were more solid than most of the film/show attempts I’ve seen. There were some funny moments, some sad, as in any play. I was particularly impressed by all the flannel on stage. Too, the cast was fairly inclusionary (though not to RSC’s extent), with a main secondary character, Becky, played by a voluptuous black woman. I’m not sure if the actors tour with the play, or if they recast often, but the cast here performed it well – there was major applause after every song, and even a standing ovation (FINALLY – what is with the Brits and not giving standing ovations?!) at the end. I took a lot of notes, and was particularly floored by Joe [who reminded me of Colonel Sanders/KFC mascot] and [I believe?] Nora the nurse’s parts. I took a bunch of notes, so I’ll be going over them again tomorrow and refreshing.
After the play, Anna, Ivey, and I headed out for a snack and final drink of the night. We found our way to Soho and the “gayborhood,” a delightful area full of lovely people, rainbow flags, and sexy window displays. I’d like to go back if I have the time, but not tomorrow if the other two plan to – I need to rest. It’s been a long, hard week, and my body is starting to remind me of that.
Tomorrow, we plan to hit up the Tower of London and visit the Thames River cruises.
The Crafty Medievalist 